Unscrew and take the Musou Saber apart. Take care not to loose any parts (though it has no much parts left after such simplifications....)
The authentic lock seeds cannot fit initially, due to the bottom of the lock seed has a small tab that will stop the lock seed from sliding into the hole. Mark out the area to cut using any authentic lock seed. This space, after cutting, will allow the lock seed to go in (as in the authentic ones, there is a small lock mechanism at that position...)
Cut out the hole in any way you can... Not easy, as this type of "shampoo bottle" plastic cannot is too 'rubbery' to be cut properly, as it wll tend to leave thin rubbery burrs that is hard to remove on the cut edges... Filing is also out of question... Anyway, finally done...
Do trim flat the side "clips" too, they are making the hole way too tight for the lock seedsto fit in...
And now the authentic lock seeds can fit in... Next, to make the lock seed activator...
Open up any DX lock seed to obtain the back piece. Be careful when opening, watch out for the small spring inside and not lose it. Keep all pieces safe.
Use the lock seed back piece to locate the positions of the top 2 switches. You can use something sharp to scratch the surface to mark out the holes...
Once holes are marked out, they can be cut/drilled... Remember to assemble the DX lock seed back safely asap...
I use a small Tamiya plastic pin (to attach from behind) for activating the lock seed's 2nd switch (to switch DX lock seeds to weapon mode). You can also use a small screw to screw in from behind... The pin should protrude around 4mm out...
Then I proceed to make an extension lever (with some spare plastic sprue rims) to attach to the trigger. The lever will slide in to push the main activation switch (a pan head machine screw is attached to the tip) on the lock seed, when the trigger is pressed. Trial and error need to be done to check for the joining positions. Hot-melt glue is used for joining.
Next, glue up more pieces of waste plastic to support the lever so that it will not flex but slides horizontally nicely. The final positions of the top supporter piece is drawn in red dotted lines (maybe I will take some pics of the new position next time when modding for the sounds)
Looking from the other direction. The lever has to be inside the supporters pieces... The tips of the 2 supporter pieces are hot-glued but with a gap left in between...
Edit: A picture on how the final positions of the supporter pieces and hot glue to join them...
A small spring is cut to size and placed here to aid in the springing back of the activator (and trigger)...
And here is how it works: Before pulling the trigger...
When trigger is pulled...
And a demo clip...
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